Memo Gidley's Secrets of Speed for Four Cycle Kart Racing

Part 5: Final Kart Setup and First Laps

Words: Jeff Grist and Memo Gidley // Photos: Sean Buur

This installment from Memo Gidley’s Secrets of Speed for Four-Cycle Kart Racing we will finish off our look at kart set-up. This includes a look at those first few important laps, what to look when you complete those laps and an overview on good maintenance practices.

Above, an example of UNDERSTEER; the kart does no want to turn.

Above, an example of OVERSTEER; the kart wants to go sideways.

First Laps

Next is a quick snapshot of what you should do to shake down the kart and orient yourself. Be very aware of your surroundings. Keep an eye on the drivers around you as you come up to speed. Get comfortable and get a sense of what the kart is doing. Here are just a couple of basic tuning tips.

If the kart does not want to turn, you have what is called understeer, or a push. This means the front end needs more grip. To make a quick change, widen the front track by moving the front wheels further apart. Move the front track out 1/4” (5 mm) at a time until this condition improves.

If the back of the kart wants to get sideways in the turn, you have what is called oversteer or a loose condition. This means the front-end has too much grip and needs to be made narrower. Move the front track in 1/4” (6 mm) at a time until this condition improves.

If the kart is wandering as you go down the straightaway, the front may be out of alignment. It could have “toe out,” where the wheels are pointing away from each other or “toe in,” where the wheels are pointing toward each other. This is corrected by adjusting the tie rods. It is recommended that you put on the proper alignment gauges and check for the correct toe setting. A correct toe setting is usually between zero toe to a 1/4” (4 mm) total toe out. Check with your local kart shop for details on what alignment tools are available. The Odenthal Exact-Toe™ is a good system (shown below), along with the Sniper™ laser system.

What to Look For

When you come in from your first session, here is a list of some basic things you need to check. These basic checks should become habit for you after every on-track session. Have your charts ready so you can quickly write down the information.

The first thing to check is the tire pressure. It is CRITICAL to get the pressure readings immediately in order to get accurate HOT tire pressures.

Compare these tire pressure readings to the COLD pressure settings when you went out. Each tire should have increased from two to three psi. Check the tires for any cuts or marks that may indicate a problem with the tire.

Now it’s important to have a quick look at all the components of your kart.

Make sure all the brackets are still tight. Make sure that there are not any nuts or bolts loosening up. Check to see if you have any fuel leaks. Look for fuel under the seat and on the back of the kart. Make sure that you check all lines for cuts, rubbing or chafing. It is recommended that all fuel lines be secured with a small tye wrap to keep them from backing off their nipple.

Next, pull the spark plug and check for color. It should be a light brown, almost coffee color, in the middle porcelain area, and black on the outer metal ring around the porcelain. If the color is drastically different, consider a jetting change.

When the engine has cooled, slowly remove the oil drain plug, usually located at the front of the engine. Let the oil flow through your fingers and feel for any particles or metal shavings in the oil. Try to let the oil flow into a measuring cup to make sure the level is down to make sure the system is not leaking. Extreme caution should be taken when removing the oil drain plug to avoid injury from hot oil. Put the plug back in carefully and DO NOT over tighten.

Finally, have a look at the chain tension. A new chain will stretch as it breaks in. If there is more than 3/8” (9.5 mm) of play, adjust the chain. As you move the engine forward, make sure that the clutch is clear of the seat.

Be sure to write down any notes as you run through the post session review. This information will be very valuable as you begin to fine-tune your kart.

Maintenance - Keeping it Clean

One of the more important things you can do for your kart is to keep it clean. I live by the saying “A clean kart is a happy kart and a happy kart is a fast kart.” The idea being that anything mechanical operates better when properly maintained and cleaned. This eliminates possible problems and helps you discover loose bolts or damaged parts before they become an issue and lose you a race.

Start by blowing off all the dirt and dust you can. Be careful when using compressed air. Always wear safety glasses when using an air hose. Next, take a rag and lightly coat it with Torco™ penetrating oil PL50. This will help cut through the grease and grime on your kart and help to keep rust from forming on any bare metal surfaces. I usually start with the front of the kart, which is usually the cleanest, and work my way back. The chain area is the last spot to clean.

It is a good idea to remove the wheels and clean the hubs and rims. Use this opportunity to check the studs, rims, bolts and tires for damage. Don’t be afraid to pull off the hubs and give them a quick cleaning. Make sure you take width measurements before you pull them off. Most hub problems come from grit and grease getting in between the hub and the axle, either causing them to slip or be difficult to adjust.

Make sure you give each surface a quick shot of brake cleaner before you put them back on. Your hubs should move easily when loosened and be solidly in place when tight. Put the wheels back on and tighten the stud bolts firmly.

Another area to keep clean is the rear axle. With a chain and chain lube, this area can be a real mess. The grease flies everywhere and then attracts grit.

Start with a clean rag and remove as much as possible. Use PL50 to loosen and remove the stubborn grease on the bearings, axle and rear gear. Using PL50 ensures that you lubricate at the same time as you clean. Clean the entire rear-end, including the bumper, the frame, bearings and the cassettes, by putting some PL50 on a rag and wiping the surface. This makes the next cleaning even easier.

Properly working brakes are important and you should take the time to maintain them and check for any problem areas. Start with a dry rag and remove as much dust and grime as possible. Clean in and around the rotor hub and the caliper.

Use a good quality brake cleaner. Take the nozzle hose and spray into the brake caliper. This should force any brake dust or track grit out. Don’t be afraid to use the cleaner, as it dries with no residue. Try not to soak the pad itself.

Another area to keep clean is the engine. I start at the top of the engine using contact cleaner and compressed air. For those areas with heavy grease, a toothbrush along with contact cleaner and compressed air works great. Don’t go crazy with the contact cleaner and make sure to keep it away from all painted surfaces. If you have run off course and picked up a lot of dirt, don’t forget to remove the tank bolt and clean underneath the fuel tank. The grit in between the floor pan and the fuel tank can act like sandpaper and wear on both the plastic tank bottom and the aluminum surface of the floor pan.

After a race day you should pull the engine for a more thorough cleaning. Remove the engine and place it on your bench. Before you begin, place a clean piece of shop towel or cloth into the exhaust and the intake opening to make sure nothing gets into the engine while you are cleaning it. Wipe off everything and make sure you clean all the electronic parts. Wipe off the chassis where the engine mount sits and also wipe off the side of the seat, which usually gets covered in grime. Clean the engine mount thoroughly, including the brackets that go underneath. You want a nice, clean contact between the engine mount and the chassis to ensure the engine does not move.

Another part that gets overlooked is the steering column support bracket.

This is a friction fit area and can collect a lot of grit. Remove the bracket bolt and slip the bracket up the steering shaft. Wipe off the column and put it back in place with a little PL50 for good measure. Make sure to wait a few minutes before reinstalling so all of the PL50 can run through.

The best to clean the bodywork is using a soapy/warm water solution, similar to what you would use to wash your car. After removing and cleaning the bodywork with WD40, use the soapy solution and soft wash mitt to remove all the stubborn stains and rubber marks. Do one piece at a time and immediately rinse with clean water from a hose. Using a towel immediately after to dry the bodywork will help to replenish any lost moisture back into the plastic and help it to keep its shine.