Memo Gidley's Secrets of Speed for Four Cycle Kart Racing

Part 3: Kart Chassis Set-up Front to Back

Words: Jeff Grist and Memo Gidley // Photos: Sean Buur

Overview

Now that you’ve purchased your four-cycle kart, it’s time to take that first run. Whether you purchased your kart new from a dealer or used from a local driver, it’s now your kart. It is your responsibility to make sure the kart is safe to drive.

You need to check the mounting of all components to make sure everything is tight and secure. It is very important that you become familiar with how your kart is put together. This will give you an idea of how to fix your kart when a repair is needed. Your first on-track outing should be pure orientation. You need to make sure that your kart is properly broken in and use this time to see if anything in the installation process was overlooked. You do not want to rush this process to get a quick lap time. Also, use this first run as a chance to get familiar with how your new kart feels and responds on the track.

Your chassis manufacturer can be a good source for information. Go to their website and get all the information you can on your make and model. Your local kart dealer should be able to supply other key information you need, like a baseline chassis and seat-mounting set-up. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Also, you need to build a dialogue with your engine builder. They will be vital in helping you avoid costly mistakes.

No matter what stand you buy, it will make working on your kart
that much easier both at home and at the track.

Before you strap on your gear, let’s go through a quick, general check and baseline set-up. Start by putting your kart up on a stand. Don’t try to work on the ground, as it is easy to miss something. You need to get your tools organized and be ready to go. Be prepared and you won’t get sidelined with unnecessary problems or delays.

The first thing to buy is a good quality kart stand. You want a stand that is sturdy, easy to maneuver, and has good-sized wheels and tires. This will help make pushing your kart easier when rolling it over gravel and asphalt irregularities at the track. You don’t want to get frustrated with a bad kart stand before you get to the grid. There’s a real range of models available from basic units like the one from RLV, and more enhanced models like the one from Anderson kart stands. Both models feature big pneumatic wheels to run over gravel surfaces and a large lower tray for tools and parts. The RLV unit folds up for storage. The Anderson kart stand can be used when you transport the kart. Choose the model that’s right for you.

Memo starts from the top and checks his way through all the nuts and bolts.

Chassis Set-up

The first major step is to go through a complete nut and bolt check. Put a wrench on every nut and bolt, checking for solid contact on the washers. Replace worn, bent or stripped bolts immediately. Many bolts on a kart need to be cotter-pinned, C-clipped or safety wired. Cotter-pinned bolts require a hole at the end for the cotter pin to fit through. Bolts that are wired require the end of one bolt to be wired to the end of another. An example of this would be the bolts that hold the brake rotor to the brake rotor hub. Always safety-wire in the direction that holds the bolt tight. Some karts have bolts with the ends machined to accommodate a C-clip.

Starting at the front with the steering system, check all of the hardware such as the spindle bolts; inner and outer tie rod jam nuts and the bolts holding the steering column at the bottom and at the steering post. All of the steering system bolts need to be cotter-pinned or C-clipped. All of these connections are safety items that are required to pass technical inspection in competition.

The RLV Stand costs less and still holds your kart.

The next area that needs attention is the brake system. Make sure the pivot bolt on the brake pedal is pinned, and the pedal is free to move without binding.

The connecting rod must have safety clips at each end. You can use a small tie wrap around the safety clip for added security. It is recommended that you attach a piece of braided wire from the brake pedal to the rear brake master cylinder as a safety backup. Make sure that the safety cable has enough slack to allow the pedal to move freely.

For safety, the bolts holding the master cylinder in place need to be safety wired or cotter-pinned. The bolts that hold the brake calipers to the mounting brackets will also need to be wired together. Whenever you are wiring bolts such as caliper bolts, for safety, it is critical that the wire is attached in a way so that it pulls in the direction that the bolt tightens. This will help to ensure that the bolts do not become loose. It is recommended that you use stainless steel wire and proper wire pliers. It takes a little practice to wire correctly, so be patient.

Look over the brake lines and make sure they flow smoothly and are secured to the frame with the proper clips or tie wraps. The goal is to hold the lines firmly in place without pinching them. The brake pedal connecting rod and the left tie rod should not interfere with each other when the steering wheel is turned from side to side. Check the brake fluid level and top it up if required. Be careful. If spilled, brake fluid will remove paint and tarnish most finished surfaces.

Anderson Pit Kart is the deluxe kart stand.

Next, we need to check the throttle or gas pedal, making sure the pivot bolt is cotter-pinned and the pedal moves freely. It is recommended that the gas pedal have two springs. This ensures that the gas pedal will return even if one spring breaks. The throttle cable should flow smoothly up to the carburetor. If the cable has any kinks, replace it immediately. Make sure the outer casing does not touch the engine, which may melt the housing, causing the pedal to stick. Use a cable casing that has a nylon inner housing for smooth gas pedal operation.

The next area to check is around the rear axle and bearing cassette-mounting supports, making sure the bolts are tight and secure. Check to make sure the axle is set to an even distance on both sides and set the hubs an equal distance from the end of the axle. Axle collars or setscrews used to hold the axle in the bearings should be checked for tightness. Use blue Loctite™ to keep setscrews in place or they will work loose very quickly.

The final areas to check are the front and rear bumpers, bodywork and floor pan. Most karts run standard CIK side pods and nose cone. Nerf bars are one of the most critical safety elements and should be visually inspected for cracks or signs of wear. All of these components need to be secured using Nylock nuts. Look for connections that are isolated with rubber washers. Most of these connections need only be snug. A kart has both a front and rear bumper. For safety reasons, most karts are designed to have the front bumper bolts tight.

Seat Set-up

Most likely your kart has the seat already installed, or the dealer has installed it for you. The seat needs to be centered between the side seat posts. If there are excessive gaps on each side, remove the seat and bring the side supports closer together. An old axle fits over the seat supports nicely and can make it easy to slightly bend them into a position that fits the seat. It is important that you don’t bend the struts too far or too quickly which may result in a cracked strut. Slowly bend the support and make sure that you slightly raise the axle on the strut with each little bend to keep from kinking the strut. Use hard plastic washers between the seat and metal supports to help prevent the seat from cracking when tightened.

If your kart has bolt-on side seat supports, center the seat first and check the fixed side support. Adjust as required. Then set the bolt-on support in place. Try to keep the bolt-on support in line with the fixed support.

In order to keep your weight distribution in the ballpark, the back lip of the seat should be forward of the axle, and the seat should be level across the top. If the seat looks a little left of center, that’s normal and is designed that way to compensate for the weight of the engine located on the right side of the kart.

Many karts come with extra seat struts. Seat struts are a way to tune the handling of your kart. Check with your frame manufacturer to find the number of struts that are recommended or your height, weight and size as a starting point.